When you think of the Mexican Riviera, with its palm-fringed beaches, luxuriant jungle vegetation and posh resorts, many places come to mind. But no resort better typifies the classic Mexican beach vacation than does Puerto Vallarta. From its sleepy, seaside village roots, it has grown into one of Mexico’s most loved destinations.
As you arrive by plane, Puerto Vallarta’s romance and beauty begin to take hold, a blanket of lush tropical jungle surrounds the quaint colonial city as it climbs away from the blue Pacific, into the Sierra Cuale mountains.
Nestled on the shores of Bahia de Banderas (Mexico’s largest natural bay) and spread between the states of Jalisco and Nayarit, Vallarta traces its history back to the 1500’s when it was first visited by Spanish explorers. It later became know as a respite for pirates plying the Pacific coast.
Puerto Vallarta remained a small village until 1963. That is the year that director John Huston decided to film his movie, “Night of the Iguana” starring Ava Gardner & Richard Burton, in Puerto Vallarta. Elizabeth Taylor flew down to be with Richard Burton in one of the most famous Hollywood affairs of the time. Both actors purchased homes in Puerto Vallarta, thus beginning its reputation as an international getaway.
Puerto Vallarta now has over 250,000 inhabitants, and welcomes more than 1.5 million annual visitors. Despite its popularity and the recent flurry of new resort developments, the city retains much of its “Old Mexico” flair. The city is graced with lovely architecture, cobblestone streets, and white stucco buildings crowned by flower-covered balconies and red-tile roofs.
You’ll find all sorts of lodgings available from budget inns to world class beachfront resorts. Outdoor recreation is limitless. Every imaginable water sport is available along Puerto Vallarta’s sandy shoreline. Fishing, diving, sailing, jet skiing and parasailing to name a few.
Shopping is some of Mexico’s finest due to the numerous galleries and shops featuring both international and Mexican wares. Puerto Vallarta also has many fine restaurants to choose from including traditional Mexican, French, Italian, Asian and American. The nightlife varies from small piano lounges to sports cafe to all night discos.
Today, Puerto Vallarta is a world class resort, while retaining the charm of a century ago. The stunning backdrop of the Sierra Madre mountains and it’s 41 km. (24 miles) of coastline provide for the ultimate vacation or living situation. Puerto Vallarta is like no other place in Mexico and most who come, yearn to return.
PUERTO VALLARTA History
Long populated by indigenous tribes, the Spanish first entered the area in 1524. Francisco Cortes (nephew of Hernan Cortes) led an exploration party down into the region from the Sierra Madre’s. As they entered the valley, they were met by over 18,000 indians. Many of the indians were carrying crude flags and thus, the area became known as Valle de Las Banderas (Valley of the Flags).
Ships routinely pulled into the bay as a safe refuge from Pacific storms or as a place to load up on fresh water. Pirates also used the bay as a place to hide and prey on Spanish galleons. Legend says that Playa de los Muertos was named after a bloody battle between pirates and local indians.
The valley slept in a quiet slumber for centuries, until 1851 when Guadalupe Sanchez purchased the land near the Rio Cuale and began farming the fertile soil. He grew crops and shipped them to the mining operations of the Sierra Madre.
At the same time, the miners shipped in mining supplies through Sanchez’ settlement of Las Penas bound for the mining towns in the mountains surrounding the valley. By the 1880’s the population had reached 1,500 people and the name was changed to honor former Jalisco governor and constitutional delegate, Ignacio Vallarta.
Puerto Vallarta became officially recognized as a city of Mexico in 1918. It remained an agricultural center with a few visitors arriving from the sea or private plane. These visitors usually fell in love with the village and returned often. The first hotel (Rosita) opened in 1948 and accommodated the few visitors who came to the sleepy village.
Two events changed Puerto Vallarta forever; Mexicana Airlines and Richard Burton & Liz Taylor.
In the 1950’s, Mexicana Airlines, shut out of Acapulco by other airlines which held exclusive air rights, decided to fly from Guadalajara to this tiny, but beautiful hideaway. The first flight came in 1954 and used a dirt runway south of Río Cuale. Puerto Vallarta now had commercial flights available for visitors.
Although Puerto Vallarta was now connected to the world via Guadalajara, and a few Americans and Canadians built homes in an area called Gringo Gulch, the town remained quiet.
This all changed when famous Hollywood director John Huston decided to film “Night of the Iguana” here in 1963, starring Richard Burton & Ava Gardner. The real attraction wasn’t the film, but the behind the scenes romance of Burton and Liz Taylor (she wasn’t even in the film). Once Hollywood received word of this, reporters and photographers came and supplied the world with photos & stories of not only the two stars but of this tropical hideaway.
Puerto Vallarta’s days as a hideaway were over as hotels and restaurants sprung up to accommodate the new influx of visitors who wanted to see where Richard & Liz romanced. Puerto Vallarta would never be the same.
Today, Puerto Vallarta is a world class resort, while retaining the charm of a century ago. The stunning backdrop of the Sierra Madre mountains and it’s 41 km (24 miles) of coastline provide for the ultimate vacation or living situation. Puerto Vallarta is like no other place in Mexico and most who come, yearn to return.
Getting Around
During your stay in Puerto Vallarta transportation requirements will be dictated by where you are staying and where your intended destination is. Most of the time, you will have more than one option.
Unless you plan to travel great distances or visit remote beaches, taxis and buses are by far the best way to get around. Taxis are plentiful, clean and reliable, and fares are reasonable and fixed (always ask what your fare will be before you get in). Taxis are usually lined up in front of most hotels. Your hotel can call a taxi for you. You can also rent a taxi for a couple hours at around 300 pesos per hour. This is a great way to see the area.
Buses are available for most locations and each bus has a destination written on the windshield. The fare is about 4 pesos between the Marina and Old Town (connecting buses are available for destinations farther North and to Nayarit) and the fare is about 4.5 pesos South from Old Town as far as Boca de Tomatlan. There are bus stops in most areas and sometimes you’ll be able to just flag these buses down as you are walking. The bus stop to go South from Old Town is located at the corner of Basilio Badillo (Restaurant Row) and Constitution on the Southeast corner. Most of these buses stop running at 11:00 p.m. so a taxi will be necessary after that time. This is the most inexpensive way to get around town. There is also a free trolley bus (donations only) which travels along the malec n (beachwalk) and into Old Town.
Rental cars are available from major rental car agencies. They have locations at the airport and in town.
Another form of transportation are the pangas (small boats). Boat trips can be arranged to some of the exotic locales in Banderas Bay. There are water taxis available from Los Muertos Pier in Old Town to reach private beaches with no road access such as Yelapa, Quimixto or Las Animas. Tickets and schedules are available on the pier.
By Air Flying is the most popular way to get to Puerto Vallarta. Gustavo D az Ordaz International Airport (PVR) is located approximately 6 kilometers north of downtown. The newly remodeled airport has a bank, souvenir shops and restaurants. Car rentals are also available at the airport. Most major Mexican & U.S. airlines fly into Puerto Vallarta.
After clearing customs, go to the booth marked “TAXI” to pay for transportation and get a “ticket”.
The following approximate prices are for an individual Taxi (1-3 passengers) or Minivan (1-5 passengers), with current rates as posted in the airport:
TO TAXI MINIVAN
Marina Vallarta (Zone 1A) $184 pesos $315 pesos
Hotel Zone & El Centro (Zone 1) $203 pesos $350 pesos
Old Town (Los Muertos), South of town to Conchas Chinas or Nuevo Vallarta (Zone 2) $265 pesos $455 pesos
Nayarit (Bucerias) or Mismaloya (Zone 3) $307 pesos $540 pesos
These drivers will expect a “tip” because of their help with the luggage. Keep in mind that in normal Taxi transportation around the city, the tip is included in the price (unless the driver gives extra service).
Car Rentals reservations can be made at the airport, before arriving or at some of the major hotels. Please see “Car Rentals” under Activities & Tours. Car rentals run from US$40-$110 daily. You will need to purchase Mexican vehicle insurance from the agencies. Most major rental companies are represented. Motorcycles and scooters may be available for rental also.
By Land
Puerto Vallarta can be reached by public bus. First class (recommended) and second class buses leave and arrive from the new bus station North of the International Airport. Buses are one of Mexico’s inexpensive ways to see the country. You can catch a bus to or from Tepic, Nayarit (3-3 1/2 hrs.), Guadalajara (6-7 hrs.) and Manzanillo (6-7 hrs.) and points in between.
Some vacationers do choose to drive from the U.S. or Mexico’s major cities (Puerto Vallarta is only about 250 miles from the city of Guadalajara). Toll roads do lead to the vicinity of Puerto Vallarta and then turn into common two-lane highways. Never drive at night on these stretches of highway if possible. Wandering livestock, road problems and possible crime make day time driving safer. If you choose to drive your car or a rental car to the resort, please check with a Mexican consulate for all rules & regulations before you leave. Remember Mexican car insurance is mandatory.
If you’d like to view the countryside and don’t mind a little extra time “on the road”, some visitors prefer the train. It can be caught out of Mexicali or Nogales along the border, or Mexico City to the southeast to Guadalajara or Tepic; then take the bus to Puerto Vallarta.
By Sea
If you plan to sail to Puerto Vallarta, you will need to follow all Mexican regulations for entering their territorial waters. Also, upon arriving at the marina or your anchorage, you’ll need to submit your papers to the Captain of the Port for legal entry. Please contact the Mexican consulate nearest you.
Accommodations
Activities